Costa Maya, Mexico 2001

Dec 19, Wed. 3:30 am:  left our house for Hartford; cruised around 2 exits around downtown Hartford looking for Chase bank ATM without success.  Arrived at the airport at about 5; watched 3 shuttles leave just as we arrived, had to wait about 10 min for the next one.  At the terminal there was a mass of people, and we finally sorted out that there were 3 lines, and got in the one people said was going to the American counter.  As we were waiting, going South in one line, saw family from Winnekeag going North in a parallel line.  American personnel came through asking for people going to Miami and brought us to the front of the line around 5:45.  Checked in and were sent to the luggage inspection line.  Watched the 60ish inspector and one colleague patiently remove each item from the current passenger’s suitcase and lay it inverted on the table, then carefully replace it.  Next he unpacked an unopened vacuum cleaner and looked through each tube, brush, and even open the case, and painstakingly repack it.  We noticed the 5 or 6 people in line in front of us and though we’d initially been relieved at such a short line, our hopes of catching our 6:15 flight dimmed.  We were thankful when the same agents that had called us to the front of the check-in line and checked us in came and inspected our suitcases, again removing every item, but efficiently.  When she saw the wrapped gift in my suitcase she told me they were required to open it, then asked me what was in it and consulted with her colleague, and decided not to.  More quickly than we expected, we rushed to our third line, for security, which stretched into the distance unpromisingly.  When we finally reached security it was 6:12, and they surprisingly let me take my fingernail clippers (on her trip, they broke off  Heidi’s fingernail file).  Only the agent was at the gate when we arrived out of breath, and they acted like they expected us, reopened the closed door and, after looking in every pocket and pouch of Wolfi’s fanny pack and camera bag, we got on, they closed the exit door, and we left.  A big thanks to the on-their-toes check-in agents, who’d rushed us through and informed the gate we were coming!

In Miami 2.5h later, we found an ATM (no fee!) and a post office, and had plenty of time to catch our Cancun flight.  Might have flown over Cuba, but it was cloudy; landed right on time, admiring the blue-green waters on the way down.  Then we had lots of time to try to figure out what car we needed, but since we didn’t know how much luggage they had, decided to wait – and it’s a good thing, because we probably would’ve taken a too-small car.  When Heidi & Emanuele arrived by 2:30 or so, we got the Chevy Blazer and were soon on our way, after the porter helped with our mountain of luggage, patiently waiting while Emanuele negotiated the rate on the car, which turned out to be about $95 per day.  Then it was off to…Sam’s Club!!  And WalMart.  Hadn’t expected that, but they loaded up on supplies (and had a long wait because of paying with a credit card – the cashier has to call the US to verify the card above a certain amount).  When we were done shopping it was pouring, but soon quit, so we and a couple Mexicans loaded all the luggage on top, tied with bungee cords, string, and plastic, and all the food and supplies in back, and Heidi and I were well padded in the back seat with the 4 pillows we’d bought.  A brief trip downtown to exchange $ for Pesos was the last stop, then by 6 or so we headed south on the good, new road, past the airport again.  In a couple of hours we were in Tulum, where they know a family who has a hotel, and we decided to spend the night, a relief in every way except unloading the luggage from the roof. They had recently had a fire in their hotel, started by neighbors who were clearing their land in the usual way – by setting the brush afire, and their straw roof and more was severely damaged.  They’re just trying to get back on their feet.  We went next door for Italian food (!) and though it was slow, we finally ate and fell into bed. 

The rooms were simple but comfortable.  It seems no one in Mexico has a shower curtain.  In the morning (Thursday) I took a jog around town, and was amazed that it seemed everyone was already up by before 7.  The roads, other than the main street (the highway we were traveling), are dirt and full of potholes, puddles at the time.  The homes are simple.  Our hosts offered us sausage for breakfast, we loaded up and continued south by 9.  There was one more town, Puerto Carrillo Felipe, where we stopped for some produce at the open market.  That was also the last official gas station, so we filled up, and were approached by locals selling peeled oranges, slices of jicama, bottles of habanero powder, and tacos.  At Limones we bought delicious little bananas and jungle honey.  There we took a turn east, passing a military checkpoint (they are frequent at intersections, especially as you approach the Belize border), and for another 57 km were on paved road.  As we approached the ocean we turned onto the coast road, more like a trail, unpaved (though once in a while it was evident that in the past it had been paved, making it all the more bumpy and rutted) but beautiful with frequent ocean views, for the last 6 km.

Finally at 1:30 or so we arrived  and unpacked, met the caretakers, Pedro and Mari, and little Pedrito, opened the house and garage  (our future bedroom), killed the scorpion that ran out as we opened it, moved in, hung up our mosquito net, got the truck down off its jacks but had to push it out, since it wouldn’t start nor be jumped.  Went to get Carey, the local handyman, who determined it was the battery, and loaned us one.  Our first look around revealed a lovely white sand beach with crashing waves, beyond the reach of which was a thin row of washed-up seaweed and some debris.  On the beach side of the road are a few dozen palms and a sea grape tree, which provides thick shade, all growing in sand, and the original palapa is there too, closer to the road.  There’s a stick fence on both sides of the road, enclosing the property, then more palms on the far side, and the well, the new palapa with porch all around, the garage with stairs up to the roof and to the top of the water tank and an ideal lookout point.  There’s also a broken down shed, and a path into the jungle toward the lake.  Soon we took a break from packing and went swimming.  It took me a while to stop being afraid of being cold.  It was strange enough to be walking around in shorts and a T-shirt.  Then walking right into the water my brain was still telling me “you’re going to start freezing any minute” but it was balmy and I was having fun being bobbed around by the waves.  After swimming a brief outdoor shower felt good and got rid of the salt. 

Since there’s no power and no phone, I was curious how they meet the basic facility needs.  Turns out there are 2 cement tanks that collect rainwater, and most often they can just use the one on top of the garage, it’s gravity fed, and supplies all the running cold water they need.  It’s actually not too cold of course, considering that it rarely gets below 70, and often is 95 or so in the daytime this time of year.  There is a regular sink in the kitchen, a bath with toilet, sink, and shower (plus knee-high spigot) in the palapa, the outdoor shower and another low spigot just outside the back door, and the garage bathroom has the same facilities as the palapa one.  All very comfortable and adequate – I’m just so surprised and impressed at how ingeniously it’s made, and on the other hand at how little one really needs to get by.  For light there are candles, and occasionally a lantern or flashlight.  You end up being more on schedule with the sun anyways, meaning up at about 6-7, to bed by 9 or so.

Thursday night it started raining early, sometimes torrential, and continued throughout the night.  They said they’ve never seen it rain so hard!  In the morning everything was flooded, a big puddle in the jungle ending just outside the garage, huge puddles in the street.  It was still pouring in the morning, and especially at first with the wind when we started running it was stinging our faces.  We ran mostly around the beach, since the wind was less there, but in a couple minutes were soaked to the socks.  It soon let up; we showered and had a hearty breakfast, including coconut milk.  Pedro had very neatly cut off the top of the coconut for us, a few swift strokes with his machete.  Then the fresh coconut was yummy too.  We had a little exploration that day.  First we took a drive to Majahual, the nearest town .  The big news is that the cruise ships are starting to go to Majahual, bringing development and employment to many locals.  We saw the rows of identical little houses they’ve built for the workers.  Almost every business along the main stretch of town has expanded or plans to by the piles of wood/concrete etc. in front .  Really it’s just a little fishing village, boats in the water, beach, the dirt road, a few dozen buildings .  But money is on the way.  In the distance we could see the large red roofs of the reception mall, and the long pier .  We drove over to see, and though it wasn’t officially open, we talked to the watchman and he let us in to have a look.  It could be anywhere in California – you enter the well-kempt compound, park on paved road, enter a modern complex surrounding blue-tiled pool, with shops of every kind at the periphery, a stage and seating for shows, volleyball courts, a beach with lounges, hammocks, straw-roofed bars, huge plastic or plaster Maya masks, every imaginable convenience.  $10 million worth, put up by a Lebanese guy from Chetumal.  Amazing what tourism does.  The cruise ship passengers go on these cruises to eco-destinations (there is no definition of “eco” – they just apply it to themselves), and want to see “the real Mexico”.  So they land at places like Majahual and see Disney-Mexico.  Some venture into the town (at least that’s the hope), on buses (it’s half a mile away!), to have a beer or buy a blanket.  Others take a day trip to a Maya ruin or to go horseback riding.  We saw some buses as far away as Tulum.  Before returning home, we went to see the neighbors up the road another 2 km (only about 10 min drive!) to the neighbors’, noticing that Ruggero and Galia weren’t home, stopping at Tom & Cheryl’s to look at the satellite weather forecast (they have a generator and dish), which didn’t look good for the rest of the week, and got some ice from them.  On the way back we invited Carey for dinner, he couldn’t make it, so made plans for Saturday night.  H&E stopped to get the latest Coast news from Dona Irma and Rene.  We went on home, I started cooking, and after a while Wolfi went back for them.  They’d learned that Pedro had worked for a neighbor for 10 days, clearing his land.  Hmmm, why was it that he hadn’t had time in the past 4 months to paint the fence posts with linseed oil to protect them from the salt air, or to paint the gas tanks with anti-rust paint? 

All along the coast road, at Majahual, and at a hundred other viewpoints, the blues and greens of the ocean greeted us.  It’s just such a soothing color, so inviting, the waves starting out at the reef, and especially toward sundown, as the sun hits them at an angle, crisp white against the darker blue.  Beautiful.  Wherever we drove, the trip was made entertaining by the many birds we could see.  Often we were on jungle roads, where we often saw flashes of orange or yellow and black.  Once we were off the coast road, the road to Limones (among others) was built up from a swamp, with no shoulder at all, so a lapse of concentration by the driver results in landing in the swamp 2-3 feet below the road surface.  White egrets, great blue (and other) herons, bitterns, and myriad unidentified birds fly up from the water, or keep hunting as we drive by.  Hawks, vultures, and other birds of prey fly above.  Once in a while we spotted a wild turkey crossing the road, and often groups of Chacalaca (as smart as squirrels) would dart left, then right, in front of us.  We also glimpsed tapir, foxes, and other mammals (one with a long tail held straight up – what is it?) on the road so it felt like a safari.  We didn’t see any of the jaguar or puma or tigrillo (little tigers) rumored to inhabit the jungle.  H&E have though.

Emanuele told Pedro & family they should go home for Christmas, so Sabbath morning Wolfi and he drove them to Limones where they could catch their bus to the west of the Yucatan.  While they were gone we made lunch, mostly a huge fruit platter with pineapple, mango, papaya, bananas, with the Christmas bread I’d brought.  Then we were off to Sian Ka’an (“where the sky begins”), the eco preserve where they have their second property at Pulticub.  It’s not very far away, but 4 km on the coast road north, some on a paved road, then a few more km of a dirt road to the reserve take about 1.5h.  Just at the start of the reserve there’s a military checkpoint and an airstrip – looks big enough to land big planes!  Hmmm, wonder what they use that for.  Saw the fence E built last summer, when he was here without H, all around the property, but with a big gap every 100m for the required public coast access.  There are lots of mature palms, and more they’ve planted, but just lots of jungle otherwise.  And lovely beach!  We wandered along the coast, and swam all together, and gathered the pretty pieces of coral the storms wash in, so they can make themselves a fireplace when they start to build there .  We noticed floating rocks, and learned they’re pumice stones!  So I started collecting them.  Before the bumpy ride home we had our snacks of radishes, tortilla chips, crackers, bananas.  Then we (much to H&E’s relief) found Ruggero and Galia home, so left them to visit, and again Wolfi went back for them.  We were expecting neighbors for dinner, so had 8 for chips with guacamole/picco de gallo/green salsa, pasta, fish Carey had caught/brought, beans, salad.  By candlelight of course, but that’s a given.  The conversation with that many was interesting and at times touchy, especially when it came to politics. 

Sunday began similar to most days:  as I opened the garage door to look at the day, I was met immediately by 4 meowing cats, joined soon by 2 hungry dogs (they only have Karaoka , but since she was in heat she was constantly accompanied by Fiero, the beach dog, and if it hadn’t been for him 2 or 3 other miscellaneous dogs).  So I then had to accomplish the challenging task of feeding them.  First the dog food, so hopefully they’d be distracted and not gobble all the cat food.  Then in the hidden corner behind the garage, the cat food.  Then the management task – keep the dogs away from the cat food, keep the cats from fighting with the dogs.  The cats are beautiful – there’s Pantera, all black, the mother of the other 3, who loves to be held; then 2 perfectly Siamese-looking white with dark brown, blue eyes, and a tiger .  All 3 of Pantera’s kittens are shy, but slowly they allowed us to touch them.  We saw the daddy, a dark Siamese. 

Sunday after more exploring around the place, seeing how much the palms H&E had planted had grown, during which we watched a raccoon (in broad daylight) boldly explore (recycle?) our trash bag, then wander back into the jungle with his buddy, we made a few little trips to do our research.  Leaving involves locking up:  sounds simple enough, but it involves closing and locking the driveway gate with 2 padlocks, and closing and locking the path gate with another 2.  Takes some time!  First stop was at the internet guys.  This is a group of 3-5 guys, Americans who’ve moved down here with this dream, and set up a business to provide internet service to coast residents.  At their house (miles off the main road, then 3-4 km of the most awful dirt road you can imagine, right on the beach) there is a wind generator & solar panels, a huge tower/antennae, and lots of computers.  There’s one guy who used to work for Cisco systems (who had the know-how to buy satellite space (or time?) and thus totally bypass the Mexican phone system, notoriously bad), a physicist (who figured out how much power they’d need and organized that part of it), and otherwise computer/software geeks.  They provide their customers with internet service by transmitting from their tower to an antenna they set up, requiring only the power from the laptop.  Amazing.  They also work commercially, have set up a few internet cafes in towns around there.  After Heidi had called her lab (they also provide internet phone service) and got her email, we retraced our steps to the main road and headed for Xcalak (schkelak), where we wanted to find out about the possibility of an alternate way for H&E to get to their place.  The idea Heidi has is to fly into Belize City, take a puddle hopper to San Pedro, and have fishermen bring them to Xcalak, or Majahual for that matter.  We found out that you charter a boat, which costs about $200 for up to 6 people round trip.  So it’d be an adventure but not necessarily a time or money-saver.  We decided against the trip, and went on to explore our next possibility – snorkeling at Chinchorro.  That we could do from Maya Ha, a resort nearly as isolated as H&E’s place.  Found out we could go the 26^th for $55/person, an all-day boat trip out to Chinchorro, an atoll 17 mi out, with about 5 stops for snorkeling (or diving, those who wanted to), including lunch.  This sounded good and we made tentative plans.  When we returned home we headed over to Ruggero and Galia’s for dinner.  They’re good friends of H&E, he an Italian in the movie industry, she a model, originally from Russia.  Their place is solid and cozy and we enjoyed being there.

Monday after leisurely reading on the beach we set out for Kohunlich, a Maya ruin west of Chetumal.  Took us about 2 hrs to get there, and it was definitely worth the trip.  It’s very isolated and not one of the most famous ruins; we saw few people there, maybe 8 or 10.  The foliage is gorgeous and of itself worth going.  The Kohun palms, for which it’s named (from the English archaeologist’s name for it, Kohun ridge, thus not the original name, which has been lost) are huge and majestic, each frond extending from nearly the ground to the top of the tree, 100’ in some cases.  We collected dozens of seeds and seedlings to try and plant some at home.  There are epiphytes everywhere, exotic plants attached to the trunks of trees, their roots exposed, many varieties.  Many plants we have as houseplants are growing wild in the jungle.  Lovely.  The ruin is impressive.  It’s a whole city, many residential buildings (like apartment buildings), structures with civic or religious or sport functions, and of course the central temple with huge masks.  The construction is massive.  In some places they’ve left things pre-excavation so one can appreciate the accomplishment.  It’s piqued my interest in Maya culture – why do the deities portrayed on the masks all have their tongue sticking out?  What is the construction in the residential buildings that is a big step up just as soon as one enters the door?  Why did they want to live at the top of the hill?  Fascinating.  We made a brief stop at a home in the swamp where the people are selling orchids and cacti – they’ve beautifully developed their land, with a bridge to the house, raised landscaped areas in the swamp.  Their plants are so artfully presented.  We also stopped for water – at a “mini super” where I was surprised to find the 5+ gallon jugs. 

We were tired when we got home, but soon there was company – Rene and Francisco singing Christmas carols and inviting us to their fiesta.  After all it was Christmas Eve, when they celebrate.  About 8 we walked up the beach to their place.  They were so hospitable.  Their (Dona Irma and Rene’s) kids from Mexico City were there, and 2 grandkids, plus other family members, cousins I guess.  First we sat outside for drinks/snacks, had mosquito torches all around, and Irwin set off fireworks (traditional on Christmas).  Then when the dinner was ready (which they’d worked on all day and probably more) we went in to a huge table all set.  Stephanie passed out all the gifts – everyone got at least one! – and each person opened theirs as they got it, all admiring.  Finally dinner was served (10pm):  turkey, beans (with ham, sausage, and cheese), salt cod, and a delicious Waldorf-ish salad of apples, walnuts, pineapple, and cream.  There was champagne (including non-alcoholic!) and much festivity.  It was so sweet of them to share their celebration with us, and we appreciated the simplicity and sincerity and joy.  After our moonlit walk home, we were glad to fall into bed.

Tuesday we’d decided to have as a day at home, no bumping around on these “roads”.  It was a day yet more beautiful – gentle breeze, as warm or cool as you liked depending upon how deep the shade.  In the afternoon the boys decided to take a trip (with Ruggero and Galia) to the internet guys, making a total of 4, so they went in the pickup and Wolfi rode in back.  He seemed to enjoy it!  Heidi and I went for my very first snorkel.  She taught me the basics – how to test the mask, position the snorkel, drain the mask, etc.  Until then (and even still, but improving) it had been very windy, and the water cloudy after the rain, the waves big.  We walked down the beach a piece, then swam out the short distance to the reef.  Seeing what was down there made me less reluctant to put my feet down on the beach!  As we approached the reef, we started seeing little corals, then bigger, and finally huge.  If you looked close, there were always fish!  And sea urchins, and such interesting, varied corals to see.  Especially exotic are the fan-types that sway back and forth with the currents.  We’d been seeing washed-up pieces of coral on the beach, so recognized the brain coral and others with finer patterns, now live.  The fish are just spectacular…every shade of yellow, orange, blue, purple, white, brown, black…so awesome.  All sizes.  I just loved it.  I realized my jaw, which had been much improved for a few weeks, started to pop while I was still out there, so I needed to not clamp down on the snorkel!  Once again Ruggero and Galia joined us for dinner, followed by lively discussions (what else are you going to do by candlelight?) and sadly another day was finished.  We made at least a couple trips per day up to the lookout, to watch the sunset, to look at the stars, to enjoy the views of blue-green water.  I got up early a couple days to watch the stars:  in the evening the moon was out, and I wanted to see them when it was really dark.  It was worth risking scorpion bites!

Wed. we’d planned to go to Chinchorro, but as we discussed it Tues. pm we realized we were just as happy to be home for the day, snorkel, and relax for our last day.  So we decided against it but planned to snorkel together.  This also meant we didn’t have to leave the house by 7 am to be jolted for an hour & ½ so that was nice!  We took our sweet time in the morning, and headed out by 11 or so.  The day wasn’t perfect; there were some clouds and it was as cool as it had been (maybe 80?).  But out at Punta Placer the water was mirror smooth!  So beautiful.  We all got our gear on and were off.  Already in the shallow water where she was putting her fins on, Heidi scared off a baby stingray, which Wolfi also saw.  There at the point the reef seems to have endless possibilities to explore.  We didn’t even get out to the further reaches, where it seems there are more schools of fish.  But it didn’t matter – there was so much to be seen!  H&E kept explaining that it wasn’t ideal, since the water was still murky from the rain.  To me it was awesome.  Granted, it was hard to see very far in front or to the side, so you felt like you didn’t have very good peripheral vision.  Looking straight down, or slightly left and right was clear enough though.  It would’ve been nice if the sun had shone more constantly, because the colors just come alive with a few rays.  We had our camera in its waterproof box, and got a few shots, but it soon fogged up, so we know next time (!) to put the anti-fog stuff on it.  The reefs are very different from what I’ve come to imagine a reef to be like.  Rather than being like a huge rock, there are individual smaller rocks (and probably further out, it is more grown together into a single entity), so that it becomes like a maze to explore.  You have to watch in front of you so that you don’t head into a dead end.  Also sometimes the coral is so close to the surface that there’s not enough room to swim over it.  There weren’t many strong waves, but the day before we had to be careful we didn’t get driven into the abrasive coral by the waves.  Ahhh, the fish – they don’t seem afraid at all.  We saw the weirdest shapes and most exotic colors.  But I’m repeating myself.  You just have to see it.  Strangely, we started to get cold – it had become such a foreign feeling – if the sun had constantly shone, it would’ve been fine.  So, sooner than we would’ve liked, we headed back in.  It was wonderful walking along the beach at Punta Placer – very cool corals, lots of shells and sponges, Emanuele found a gorgeous shiny conk.  Have to go back there and walk some more.  We then drove another 2 km up the beach to see a place there and try to meet the owners; they weren’t there, but one of the caretakers showed us around, even taking us in the dwelling, which is posh – separate buildings for bedroom, bath, and living area (which is open).  We walked along the beach a ways there as well.  On the way home we stopped to get fish from Armando, aka Chiba, then dropped it off with Ruggero and Galia, who offered to cook so we could be preparing for our early departure the next day.  We’d been discussing leaving asap for Chetumal, so H&E could get an early start in the morning with their chores, but decided against it.  Mostly we just wanted to enjoy our last night on the beach.  Which we did!  After organizing our things, I decided since it was finally cooler, I would make some coconut chips in the oven, as I’d been intending to.  Well, a half hour of mutilating the poor coconut later, with the efforts of both Wolfi and me, we finally managed to extract some of its flesh!  Not easy!  How did you do that Pedro?  The chips were tasty, and we took them along to Ruggero and Galia’s.  That night, for the first time, we used the brand new blanket Heidi had bought in Tulum on our way down (they only had one, so she bought 2 more beautiful woolen Mexican ones, deep blues and reds) since it was cool. 

Thursday, unfortunately it was already time to go.  Up at 5, and for the first time the cool shower felt just that.  First we enjoyed the stars the last time, and saw the cruise ship heading south to Mahajual.  To me it always looked so out of place in that wilderness, like an omen of things to come.  Then the final touches to packing, and cleaning everything up, getting rid of all the garbage, bringing all chairs etc. inside, locking up all the windows, and off by 6:30.  Heidi and I drove in front in the pickup, Emanuele and Wolfi in the Blazer.  We stopped 2-3 times to put steering fluid in the truck (once at a lovely beachcombing site where H&I got more lovely coral); there would be a puddle of it underneath on the road, so the problem was not small.  When we reached the paved road, it became clear that the Blazer was having big problems too:  it wouldn’t shift out of 2^nd gear.  Soon the transmission light came on.  We stopped at another of the barrel/bucket/funnel gas stations for some gas for H&E to make it to Chetumal.  When we reached Limones, we found a mechanic who put some transmission oil in for us, and headed north at max 50mph.  Our plan had been to leave so early so we could stop and see another ruin at Tulum, but it became clear we should just get to the airport by 1 for our 3 flight.  We were glad to just make it!  We stopped for a few more little bananas in Carrillo, yum.  We’d discussed the options if the car quit – and while they were satisfactory, they didn’t sound very comfortable, so we were relieved to arrive.  It was good we came straight up, since we discovered our flight was half an hour earlier than what was on the ticket.  We had little time to spare! 

Poor Wolfi was singled out for total inspection (including shoes!) on both flights!  I only had to open all my carry-on luggage once, on the Miami-Hartford flight.  Really, thankfully, our flights were uneventful and fine.  We arrived home around 12:30 and were happy to crash.  Now we wistfully long to be back.  We had to get used to wearing shoes and heavy clothes again – and Wolfi seems to have developed a shoe allergy – whenever he puts on his shoes, his left foot hurts.  Now we have ourselves set up fare watchers, emails when there are cheap flights to Cancun!  Want to join us?